The Shocking Source Behind This New K-Beauty Skin Booster
Heading to South Korea for cosmetic tourism has been a hot topic of conversation over the last few years, given the country’s reputation for using innovative ingredients and techniques that are usually not readily available in the United States. The most popular of late has been polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN. Derived from salmon or trout sperm, it’s become a hot ingredient stateside, where it’s a key component of serums, lotions, and sheet masks. While here it’s only approved for topical use, in Asia it’s among a group of treatments called skin boosters that are injected into the dermal layer to help with texture, collagen production, and overall radiance. The latest addition to this class of cosmetic enhancers that’s become a favorite in big cities like Seoul is Re20. The kicker? It’s made from donated cadaver cells.
Re20 is by Elravie, a Korean company known for its fillers and other cosmeceutical skincare products. “It’s a micronized human acellular dermal matrix (hADM) usually derived from the dermis of a deceased organ donor. [After extensive processing] the final product contains collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acids, all of which comprises the scaffolding that makes skin look youthful. It’s then injected or microneedled,” explained Edward Kwak M.D., a dual board-certified facial plastic surgeon based in New York City. While this might come as a shock to many Americans, it’s exceedingly popular in Seoul for its natural looking effects. “Many patients are seeking treatments that create healthier, stronger, more resilient skin rather than simply adding volume or creating an overfilled appearance,” said Eunice Park M.D. a dual board certified facial plastic & reconstructive surgeon, and founder of Airem, a Korean beauty-inspired medical aesthetic spa in New York City. “Unlike many other Korean skin boosters, it’s less focused on hydration alone. The goal is improvement in texture, elasticity, crepey skin, pores, and overall vitality.”
Of course, this isn’t legal in the United States and for those headed to Seoul, curious about the procedure there are some caveats before you book your clinic appointment. “While the cellular material is removed from [Re20], it is still a biologic, donor-derived product, and that distinction is important from both a scientific and informed consent perspective,” warned Park. She also adds that unlike other injectables like hyaluronic acid, there’s limited data on its long-term safety as well as how long its effects will last. You also run the risk of having a reaction or getting nodules. Kwak agrees, adding, “While the treatment seems safe based on Korean studies, all patients considering any medical treatment should consult with a qualified plastic surgeon or dermatologist prior, understanding the risks and benefits for each procedure.”
And what if you have no plans to head to Seoul? For similar effects Kwak suggests more readily available treatments like Sculptra, Radiesse, and platelet-rich plasma better known as PRP injections. Park agrees, adding that for those wanting to address skin structure also look into Renuva, which helps with fat restoration, or alloClae, a fat-based filler to help restore volume. She also suggests ReyaGel, an FDA-approved topical treatment used after lasers, microneedling, and resurfacing treatments that helps with tissue healing and regeneration. Regardless, Re20 is worth keeping an eye on in the future and might be the future of aesthetics. “It’ particularly interesting because [the treatment] represents a broader movement away from simply filling the face and toward improving tissue quality, skin resilience, and the biologic environment of the skin itself. But it’s still a relatively new technology and we’re waiting on long-term data,” said Park.
